Fabric Raw Materials Basics: Understand the Definition and Classification of Textile Fibers in One Article

In the previous few articles, we learned the methods to distinguish fabric raw materials through the various characteristics of fibers. But to truly understand fabrics, one must first recognize the basic units that make up fabrics – textile fibers. Today, we will start with the definition of textile fibers and provide a detailed interpretation of the classification system of fibers to help you establish a basic understanding of fabric raw materials. ​

I.What are textile fibers? ​

Textile fibers are the “building block” of fabrics. It does not refer to all fibers in a general sense, but specifically to fibers that are spinnable. In simple terms, it is a fiber that can be processed into yarn through spinning technology and then woven into fabric. ​

To become an ideal textile fiber, it needs to possess a series of excellent physical properties: Firstly, it must have a certain length and fineness, which is the basis of spinning; Secondly, it needs to have appropriate elasticity and resilience to enable the fabric to adapt to stretching and deformation. At the same time, it should also have good chemical stability so that it is less likely to deteriorate due to external environments (such as water, detergents, light, etc.) during washing and wearing. ​

The natural fibers we are familiar with, such as cotton, wool, silk and linen, are the ideal textile fibers bestowed by nature. With their naturally excellent properties, they became the earliest raw materials used in the history of human textiles. With the development of technology, artificially manufactured chemical fibers have gradually met the requirements of spinnability and have become an important part of textile raw materials. ​

II.Classification of Fibers: Understanding Fiber Families from Different Perspectives

There are numerous types of textile fibers. To have a clearer understanding of them, we can classify them from different perspectives. ​

1,Classification by length: The “body shape difference” between short fibers and long filaments

The length of fibers is the most intuitive classification criterion, based on which they can be divided into two major categories: short fibers and long filaments. ​

Short fibers refer to fibers that are short and discontinuous in length. According to their sources and characteristics, they can be further classified into cotton-type fibers, linen fibers and wool-type fibers. The length of cotton-type fibers is generally between 25 and 38 millimeters, which is close to that of cotton. The length of ramie fibers is mostly from a few centimeters to several tens of centimeters. For instance, ramie fibers can be as long as 25 centimeters. Wool-like fibers are longer, usually ranging from 50 to 120 millimeters, similar in length to wool. Short fibers need to be twisted together through the spinning process to form yarn. ​

Filament is a very long and continuous fiber, just like a continuous fine thread. Long filaments are further classified into single filaments and compound filaments: a long filament with only one fine filament is called a single filament. If it contains two or more monofilaments, it is called a multifilament. The number of monofilaments contained in a multifilament is indicated by the letter “F”. In China, the number of single filaments in multifilament is usually an integer multiple of 12. Common F-numbers include 12, 24, 36, 48, 72, 96, 144, 196, 288, etc. (The larger the number, the thicker the multifilament.) Long filaments do not require complex spinning and can be directly used for weaving.

2,Classification by source: The “difference in origin” between natural and artificial

One of the most common classification methods is based on the source of fibers, which can be divided into two major categories: natural fibers and chemical fibers. ​

Natural fibers are fibers that occur naturally in nature and do not require artificial synthesis. They mainly include plant fibers and animal fibers. Plant fibers come from parts of plants such as seeds and stems, for instance, the cotton and hemp that we are familiar with. Animal fibers come from the hair or secretions of animals, such as wool, cashmere, and silk. ​

Chemical fibers are fibers artificially manufactured through chemical methods. Depending on the raw materials and production processes, they can be further classified into regenerated fibers and synthetic fibers. Regenerated fibers are fibers made from natural polymer materials through chemical treatment and regeneration. Common types include viscose, modal, Tencel, copper-ammonia fibers, etc. Synthetic fibers are fibers synthesized through polymerization reactions based on chemical raw materials such as petroleum and natural gas. Common synthetic fibers include polyester, nylon, acrylic, and polypropylene. ​

The picture shows hemp, a type of natural fiber.
Chemical fibers.

3,Classification by characteristics: The differences in the “temperament and character” of fibers

Classifying fibers based on their chemical composition and properties can help us understand the “temperament and character” of different fibers. They can mainly be divided into three categories: cellulose fibers, protein fibers and thermoplastic fibers. ​

The main component of cellulose fiber is cellulose. This type of fiber usually has good moisture absorption, excellent breathability and is comfortable to wear. Common ones include cotton, linen and bamboo fibers, as well as regenerated fibers such as viscose, modal, Tencel and copper-ammonia. ​

Protein fibers are mainly composed of protein. Such fibers are generally soft to the touch, have good warmth retention and are elastic. Including animal hair fibers such as wool, cashmere, yak hair and rabbit hair, as well as silk, soy protein fiber, milk protein fiber, etc. ​

Thermoplastic fibers refer to fibers that possess thermoplasticity, that is, fibers that soften and deform when heated to a certain temperature and can maintain their new shape after cooling. This type of fiber can be easily shaped through heat treatment. Common ones include polyester, nylon, acrylic, polypropylene, spandex, acetate fiber, vinylon, etc. Among them, spandex has extremely strong elasticity and is often used to make elastic fabrics. ​

Cotton and linen summer clothes.
Wool sweater.

By classifying fibers by length, source and characteristics, we can have a more systematic understanding of the vast family of fibers. Understanding these classification knowledge can not only help you quickly identify the fabric components, but also lay a solid foundation for choosing the appropriate fabric in the future. In the next article, we will continue to delve into the world of fibers and explore more mysteries of fabrics. ​

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